The Questions I Never Asked
Photo © Rob Jones
When something is good, you keep returning. That’s a given when it comes to food. It’s a dilemma for foodies thogh. So much to discover, and yet to try something new that doesn’t quite hit the target can be a real let down. Sometimes it’s simply better to play it safe. It’s like a comfy old pair of shoes, or a black & white Ealing comedy. There’s pleasure in familiarity.
Some years ago now, I found myself in north Corfu right at the beginning of the tourist season. So early in fact that I had taken my hosts by surprise. They were still painting the accommodation. But I was welcomed in, and just became part of the preparations. A test case.
Too early in the season also for many businesses who don’t fully open until the end of May or even later when the bulk of lobster-skinned tourists pitch up, and slug themselves around the resorts.
But a short walk from where I was staying, there was a taverna called the Three Brothers. Perched in a lonely spot, well away from the resorts. Slightly ramshackle in appearance and barely promising. It was a warm day and I needed a cold beer. Peering out across the multi-blue-shaded Ionian sea towards Albania, I was the only customer. I was content to enjoy my beer in silence. At times like that, you have no questions. You just enjoy. I’ve been there several times since and never never asked a thing.
But this time?
Question - Why is this Taverna called The Three Brothers?
Answer: A shrug of the shoulders to suggest that the answer is obvious. The taverna was established by the grandfather of the current owners - a Mr. Vasilios Mourmouras - more than fifty years ago. Trumpted as the oldest fish tarverna on Corfu!
Question - Why here, in Astrakeri?
Answer: A finger pointed to the little dock where the fresh fish is landed daily. it used to be a haven for pirates in Venetian times. The name comes from the little small star shaped flowers that you see everywhere call Astrakia. Ancient myths says they are the tears of the goddess Asteria who wept because she couldn’t see the stars when she looked at the ground.
Question - The best thing on the menu?
Answer: The Octopus Pasta - a top secret recipe which atracts gourmets from across the world, and also celebrities (Janet Jackson’s name is in the guestbook.) Try also the marinated white bate, kalamari on the grill prawns in white wine and garlic. It’s not an extensive menu, but it’s all fresh and local, and you sense it is adapted at a moments notice depending on availability.
Question - who cooks?
Answer: A mysterious Mrs Aliki does the magic, and her three sons - Jiannis, Giorgos and Vasilis - and Giorgos’s wife Petra oversee the hospitality. I saw no sign of Mrs Aliki, and there was only one brother on duty that day.
Question - What shall I have?
Answer: Have the Bourdeto, there are no chips today, but have it with bread and olives instead.
Bourdeto?
From the Venetian word Brodeto which means broth. It’s fish cooked in a tomato and red spicy pepper sauce. Shark was the centre piece of mine, but it works with any meaty white fish.
Ingredients
A meaty white fish
Passata
Chopped and skinned tomatoes
Onion
Chilli powder
Chopped Parsley
Olive Oil for cooking.
Method
Soften the onion in the oil and then add the tomato, passata and chilli powder, salt and pepper, with a little hot water and simmer for about 20 minutes. Add the fish, cover and cook for another 20 minutes. Make sure the fish is covered by the spicy sauce, occasionally flipping the fish. Remove from heat and sprinkle with parsley and lemon juice. Serve with bread to mop up the sauce.
I wanted to thank Mrs. Aliki but I sense she prefers to stay out fo the sun- and limelight.
R.
